This has to be my favorite dress to date. It started as the Simplicity Elizabeth pattern #0679. As always I changed most of the construction from the start. The fabric is a peacock blue antique satin. You can wash antique satin in the washer but remember to do it before you start your project as it may change in texture. Try a small sample piece before you throw 8 yards in. The black fabric is cotton velvet. Not velveteen but velvet. It feels wonderful and it also is machine washable. The lower sleeves are grey satin. Upper sleeves were made by cutting the pattern piece into sections and adding a small seam allowance to the cut edges. After that I finished the edges with silver lame' and then cut another upper sleeve out of the blue basted it all together and set it on the lower sleeve like the pattern called for. The waist is cartridge pleated with cartridge pleat tape. It make the process so much faster than hand gathering and also cuts out the need to face the top of the skirt fabric. This dress is worn with a farthingale and small bum roll. Also an extra petticoat is under the black skirt so the bones of the hoop don't show through the skirts.
Close up of the stomacher. This is black velvet with pearl strings couched on with  silver thread. The ribbon was beaded with glass and crystal beads. You can see the points or aglets at the waist. (The silver things at the end of the cording at the waist that hangs down.)If you tie the skirt to the bodice it really makes it more comfortable. I used the same rings as the back sewed to the underside of the bodice and the cord was sewed to the waistband. On the right is the close up of the sleeve. The same pearls as the stomacher, silver cord and square cabs spaced around the cuff. The ruffle is the same silk as the partlet and has been set on bias tape so it could be removed to use on another dress.
I absolutely love this partlet. It is made from 100% sheer silk. Since I look horrid with a ruff around my neck the little ruffle substitutes for a ruff. It takes the perfect face and a much longer neck than mine to pull off a ruff with good results. The pearls are a good quality glass. The blue cabs are set in silver and a small pinkish cameo in the front is also set in silver. The blue sparkles like real aquamarine. I don't know where my mom found them but if I ever get my hands on more I have a few projects in mind.
O.K. This is why you can't fit a dress on your self or ask your husband for help. It did not fit correctly even though it did fit in the mock up. It pulled at the shoulders and did not meet at the back like it should have. Most people thought it looked just fine but some of you hard core costumers will know what I am talking about. I put a modesty panel behind the rings that covers your corset and makes it adjustable somewhat. If anyone can give me a hint on how to sew the rings in so it won't pull please let me know. I sewed them around the boning that runs along the edge of the center back.
Lady Kendrick